The Solo Traveler: Leaving Bhaisepati for Patan

As I was getting ready to leave Bhaisepati, I knew I wanted to begin my travels by spending more time in Patan. My weekend visit at Newa Chen had been so delightful, I chose a similar traditional place, Hira Guest House, two blocks away as a transition until I could find a long-term room.  It was a decision that changed my time in Nepal profoundly.

Hira began about two years ago with the leasing of a portion of a 200 year old Newari house, originally owned by the Hira family. The project of several ex-pats, the six-room guest house is run by a small group of young people in their early 20's. Their success providing personalized, friendly service and their enthusiasm for improving the business made them totally engaging.

The top floor, typical of Newar homes, was the restaurant and food preparation area along with the terrace. From here I could see the Golden Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, over the railing.
Some Golden Temple Professional Photos http://www.magic-photographer.com/2010/03/25/buddhist-golden-temple-unesco-world-heritage-site-patan-kathmandu-valley-nepal/

From the windows of my room on the right, family homes almost within reach.

 And from the windows on the left, more families.

Every morning and evening, the 12-year old priest from the Golden Temple, who leads for one month, made a circuit around the temple. Ringing a prayer bell and accompanied by guards (to protect him from being touched, in part), the priest stopped for prayers at several small holy places on the route.  One morning from the restaurant window, I finally got this speck of him hurrying along, barefoot, clad in white, with two men in blue shirts, one before and one after.

But it was meeting the three young people who kept the guest house going, along with two house keeping staff, that directly influenced how I spent some of my time during July and August in Patan.

My first personal conversation with Aman, the guest house manager, was about his plant growing experiment on his roof top terrace in a building several doors down the street from Hira. It turned out that his passion was a long term project on his family land in the Terai.  http://farmhousenepal.com/

If Esther had a job title, it would be co-manager.  From her, I learned that Hira Guest House's profits go to support a local orphanage. The beginnings of a website is at Mercy Mission to the Himalayas http://mercymissionnepal.org.np. She had grown up in a Kathmandu orphanage, reconnecting as a teenager with her natural family. She also lived for a while at Mercy Mission.

With the night guard who, typical of small establishments, also makes and serves breakfast, I ate eggs over easy--the only ones that qualify, in my experience in Nepal including attempts at several 5 star hotels--learned more about soccer, and went to a Sunday service at an international church.

Over the course of a month, I visited Aman's family in the Terai with Esther, went to a "bioponic" farm in Godawari with Aman, visited Mercy Mission with Esther, and got set up at the Joshi residence with Aman's help.

All in all, an internet search for an interim place to stay that turned out to be far better than expected.

A traditional Napali dinner hosted by Aman and Esther on their terrace

29 July--A Diverse Birthday

Several days before Tuesday, the 29th, I gave some thought to how I'd like to spend my birthday. In a vague way, I approach birthdays with the idea that the day's activities set the stage for the year to come.

I went on line and located a fancy-looking spa and booked an early morning massage.  Added to that was a short list of food and sites and people to complete my loose plan for the day.

Around dinner time on Monday, I got a call from my Bhaisepati friends inviting me to breakfast at the Hotel Himalaya to celebrate my birthday and my friend's birthday, also the 29th. www.hotelhimalaya.com.np
A quick phone call to the spa with an explanation about my birthday breakfast invitation produced a later appointment. So, I was delighted to begin my birthday with my friends.  Unfortunately, the husband, with whom I share the birthday, wasn't able to come because of illness. It was lovely, however, to see the girls and their brother, and share a breakfast with their mother.  It was also the second day of Eid al-Fitr which made the meeting even more special.

The family driver took me directly to the spa which was a gift, as I didnt know where it was located.  Several hours later, I left the spa feeling well-pampered and with a birthday gift certificate in hand.

It was a lovely, sunny day and from the spa I walked 20 minutes of so to Black Pepper for what I thought would be my main meal of the day.

Trying to set a good example for my new year, I walked the 40 or so minutes back to my room arriving hot and tired and looking forward to a rest in front of the fan.  Within minutes, Nischal, the son in the family home where I'm staying, was at my door.  He invited me to dinner that evening at 8:00.  Eid al-Fitr is a holiday in Nepal and the extended family was gathering to enjoy some time together.

So, I changed and was off to Bhat-Bhateni to buy a hostess gift--another 20 minute walk one way.

To fortify myself for a walk in the hot afternoon sun, I stopped by Swotha Kiosk for a coffee.  The organic coffee and tea shop has been a daily destination since I've been at the Joshi residence as it's located just a block away and has great coffee and the daily paper.

People here often ask my age, usually within minutes of meeting--a bit disconcerting.  The coffee shop owner had asked several weeks ago and I must have volunteered that my birthday was the 29th though I dont remember doing it.  When I went to pay for my coffee, he had remembered and the coffee was "on the house". (Yesterday, August 1st, the owner shared it was his birthday, though he doesnt usually tell people he said.)

With dates from Iran and chocolates from Switzerland in hand, I changed once more and was ready at 7:30 when Nischal knocked on my door.  Here I am in my kirtha with Hari Har, the father of the family and the owner of the home where I am staying.  We are on the top floor, the fifth floor in American terms, which consists of this room and the kitchen across the hall.

Hari Har and I

Nischal took me up to the terrace where he, Hari Har, and two son-in-laws were chatting, and six or more children were playing.  Shortly, a plate of food arrived for me.  No one else was eating. Hummm.  When I asked if they had eaten, yes, they had and would I please go ahead. Everyone's English was excellent which made conversation very easy for me.  The food was good consisting of potatoes, chicken, several crunchy snack foods, and an unidentifiable item which was delicious.  It turned out to be goat lung, stuffed with egg and flour, boiled and then fried. I finished most of the food and was more than full, this being my second dinner of the day.

We chatted some more.  Nischal had seen my passport when I took the room and quickly figured out how old I was. He was telling the group my age and said, "I know your birthday is soon."  With such a lead-in, I had to say that this was the day.  A short while after, Nischal left the group and a few minutes later, four little children, including his daughter, age five, appeared.  One after another, they said, "Happy Birthday, Grandmother," with a kiss on the cheek.  It was too sweet.

Then the most unwelcome news that dinner was ready.  Maybe 30 minutes had passed since I polished off a complete dinner which turned out to be a "snack".  Off we went to the fifth floor for a buffet style dinner! It, too, was delicious typical Newari food.  Dessert was special and Kabina's (Nischal's wife) contribution to the dinner...much, much better than cake, in my opinion.

My "no thank you" helping at dinner

This Joshi family gathering had the parents, their children, less one daughter who is in Canada, and their grandchildren, plus various in-laws.  Altogether, I guess there were about 35 people.  The holiday was an occasion for four families to come together which they said happens three or four times a year, in addition to many and various other holiday gatherings. After most family members had left, Siddhi presented me with a necklace and a bracelet as a birthday gift.

Left to right: Nischal, me, Siddhi (Hari's wife), Hari Har, Pritha (daughter who owns local restarurant) and Kabina

So by the end of the day, my birthday was delightfully full of surprise, people, exercise, food, and indulgence. A lovely, unique day.